OLD CHINATOWN, LA, 1964
Tourists bask in the glorious glow of yellow, pink and aqua neon as they stroll the spectacular central plaza of Old Chinatown. The highly stylized, 1938-vintage themed environment of extreme exotica is one of my absolute favorite places in all of Los Angelesland and an Americana landmark of the highest order. A better virtual sweet-and-sour-pupu-platter of authentic 1930s Chinese modern architecture you will not find anywhere. The legendary Chinese Theater in Hollywood is its closest cousin. Sometimes I like to imagine them living next door to each other.
I can’t think of a more colorful place than Old Chinatown. Can you? The paint scheme is straight out of a comic book. And if you love neon like I do its a treasure trove. This weekend a great place is about to get even greater. After decades of not being there anymore the neon highlighting those spellbinding pagoda rooflines has been replaced. Miracles do happen! I weep! The relighting ceremony is part of Chinatown’s 70th anniversary party, Saturday evening June 28, 2008. The neon light switch will be flipped on at 8:30.
If you love timeless Chinese modern style like I do, I seriously recommend while experiencing Old Chinatown that you see two of the best vintage Chinese restaurant interiors in country. The upstairs dining room at Hop Louie (formerly the Golden Pagoda) is still serving sweet and sour pork, while Realm, a gift shop housed in the long-gone Hong Kong Low Restaurant, serves up the most spectacular retail space in the city! Oh, and speaking of Chinese modern time-warps, the old lawyers office upstairs in the Hong Building (seen here on the left,) was recently revealed after decades of being moth balled. Don’t miss that either. Ask to do so inside of Realm and make sure to tell them I sent you!
Here’s to Chinatown, Chinese modern, those that restored the neon and YOU!
Yes it sure looked a lot cleaner back then didn’t it? Just like most of LA. I was around 4 then and I do remember everything looking cleaner.
Hey Jim-Charles – do you remember when you, Tosha, Ann Maurer and I went to the piano bar in China town in like 1983? It was my first time there and you introduced me to it!! Loving your website!!
Chinatown is perfectly clean and safe. We have been going there since the 50′s and my brother and I go down everytime he is in L.A. It is so since to have one thing preserved in LA. Thank you to all of those involved in keeping it alive. Even though the stores have changed they have been replaced with art stores and young people who appreciate the area. Thank God it hasn’t turned into some corporate nightmare like Farmer’s Market. Our family has been in LA since the 1800′s and we try and focus on what is still good about it and hope the old can be incorporated into the new. I think Chinatown is a good example of that being possible.
I’m from New York, and I thought I knew what a Chinatown looked like. My hometown ain’t got nothing on L.A.!
Dear Charles,
I believe that “old chinatown” in the year 1964 is a misnomer. It should be “new chinatown”. The real “old chinatown” was razed when Union Station was built sometime in the 1930′s on the site of “old chinatown”. Ask some of the old timer chinese in”new chinatown” to reconfirm.
Sincerely, Gary Idama
Was just in Chinatown last night and thinking of your tour, Charles! I love everything about Chinatown, but especially the treasures. I got a FABULOUS paper parasol that I can’t wait to use all summer long!
When my grandparents would come out from Minnesota every couple of years, they always wanted to go to Chinatown for dinner in the 60′s. My favorite part was looking at the tacky tourists shops after dinner. I would always sneak off and find the nasty “R-rated” gifts or towels. I’ll never forget the “Happy Fishman” towel.
The only thing better than this neon roof top pagoda picture, would be a picture of ME standing in front of it in my Chinese Foo Dog Opera hat and Robe, with my Chinese Crested Dog “Dragon” in tow!!!
All “Opera Hats Off” to all Chinatowns around the world, with LA being one of the best.
Sinszato
Chinatown celebrated its 70th anniversary last Saturday night. It looks again just like it does in your photo, with fresh paint on the buildings and red lanterns strung overhead. One of the highlights of the evening was when they flipped the switch that turned on the restored neon on three of the buildings. Fabulous.
Oh my goodness…drove past this on Saturday while leaving Dodger Stadium after the game and saw all the “neon” and people there. My mother used to take me there as a child. The best part of going there was to buy a pair of “tabbies”…wore those until my toes were curled…then it was time to go to Chinatown once more. As I passed by I commented that I want to go there some night and walk around…let the memories flood my consciousness…my toes are feelin curled …long over due for a new pair of “tabbies” I have not been there in 40 years.
A Very Fond Memory
I love neon as well. KPCC just talked about a man who gives night time neon tours of Los Angeles–
I think perhaps you two are twins, separated at birth.
Love the color pix. Thanks!
One thing: always understood that the “old” Chinatown was demolished for Union Station and that the current, 1938 Chinatown is the “new” one. ???
Speaking of “Chinatown” and environs, any word on the restaurant (on S. Main Street, if I recall) by the name of “Man Fook Low”? I went there many tiime, back in the ’70s, and its’ “claim to fame” was that it was (reputed to be) the favorite [Chinese] restaurant of Mae West …
It would be nice to see an update on the place, but, realistically, I’ll bet it’s gone.
Don’t forget the gardenia corsages–big treat from my great Dad in the 1950′s!
PS: I wore Tabbies too–very big with pre-teens in the 50′s